Getting started ...
1) Drive less
The best way to reduce fuel use is to drive less:
a) Live closer to work;
b) carpool;
c) bicycle;
d) walk;
e) take public transit
2) Park and ride (bicycle)
If part of your commute is not biker friendly, travel to a point
that is and then bike the rest of the way.
The "park and ride" concept can also be applied to carpooling and
mixed private/public transit travel.
3) Attend a driving clinic
Hybrid owners groups are popping up in cities around the world -
and non-hybrid owners are often welcome to attend regular meetings.
Fuel efficient driving techniques are commonly discussed, and clinics
are sometimes offered by experienced members.
4) Clean junk from your trunk
The additional weight you carry in your vehicle doesn't ride for
free. It takes energy to move it around. Removing unnecessary stuff
from your vehicle saves fuel.
5) Let the most efficient driver drive
More than one licenced driver in the vehicle? Let the most
efficient driver drive! And take the opportunity to learn from his/her
wisdom.
6) Join a fuel economy forum
Join an outstanding forum to learn ways to increase your fuel
economy by talking to others who share your enthusiasm and goals.
7) Remove unused roof racks
If your vehicle come with a roof rack and you don't use it, remove
it. Same holds true for bike racks. Doing so will reduce aerodynamic
drag, resulting in better fuel economy.
Check tire inflation regularlyMake sure that your tire pressures are, at minimum, set to
manufacturer specifications. The higher the pressure, the less rolling
resistance.
Remember that pressure is affected by ambient temperature. As
temperature drops, so does your tire pressure, so keep track as the
seasons change.
9) Track your fuel consumption
One of the first steps in improving efficiency is tracking fuel
consumption.
Get in the habit of saving all your fuel receipts, recording
distance travelled and fuel economy (MPG). Keep a small notebook to
record trip type and new techniques employed to monitor your progress.
While the slower pace of tank-to-tank feedback isn't ideal for
feedback on driving technique, recording and montoring your "big
picture" progress is great motivation.
See the Ecomodder Blog for more information on tracking fuel
consumption.
10) Use a fuel consumption display
Feedback is absolutely critical to improving driving habits.
Tank-to-tank monitoring of your consumption is not good enough.
You need instrumentation that lets you reset the readout at will so
you can track individual trips, or even portions of trips you
regularly travel.
Options for vehicles without factory installed fuel economy
computers include the ScanGauge and SuperMID. Even the venerable
vacuum gauge can help you improve efficiency when driving with load /
target driving.
Route selection and trip timing ...
11) Take the road less traveled
Generally speaking, if you have the option of choosing lightly
traveled roads over busier ones, you give yourself more flexibility to
employ a wider range of fuel saving techniques than if you are
surrounded by other vehicles.
You may even find that a somewhat longer, lightly traveled route
may result in lower overall amount of fuel used than the shorter,
busier route.
12) Leave early and don't rush
The enemy of efficient driving is finding yourself in a rush.
Leave for your destination a little early so you don't feel pressure
to drive faster, brake later and otherwise fall back into bad habits.
Driving efficiently can be much more relaxing than the typical
person's driving style, but you need to allow a bit of extra time.
13) Crosswind barrier
Headwinds aren't the only winds that increase fuel consumption -
cross winds can have a large negative effect as well. In crosswind
conditions, choosing a route with a barrier (trees or buildings) along
the edge will save fuel compared to a road in the open.
14) The 'corridor effect'
All else being equal, traveling at a constant speed on a freeway
within a flow of traffic (in the same direction) is more efficient
than going the same speed in isolation. The reason is aerodynamic: a
flow of traffic generates a localized wind current in the direction of
travel. You will benefit from this artificial breeze.
15) Note your transition points
If you regularly travel the same roads, make a conscious effort to
note (memorize) the points along the way where transitions occur that
maximize efficiency.
EG. memorize where you can initiate a coast to just make it to the
next stop sign. Or note at what speed you can crest a hill so you're
traveling just fast enough for the next transition after the descent.
16) Time your gas station trips
Plan to refuel your car during off-peak times to avoid lines and
excessive idling.
17) Avoid drive-thrus
Avoid drive thru windows. They lead to excessive idling.
18) Lane of least resistance
In multi-lane traffic, choose the "lane of least resistance" to
avoid unneccessary and unpredictable braking/changes in speed.
EG. avoid lanes where buses are starting and stopping, or cars may
be braking unpredictably to turn into driveways/parking lot entrances.
19) Avoid stops at bottom of hills
Avoid roads with stops at the bottom of hills (which force you to
brake and waste the kinetic energy you just gained going downhill).
20) Take advantage of the wind
If possible, time trips to take advantage of strong tailwinds.
Avoid setting out into strong headwinds/crosswinds.
21) Choose smooth road surfaces
Choose a route with a smooth, paved/concrete surface over gravel
or rough, broken roads, all else being equal. Smoother surfaces offer
reduced rolling resistance.
22) Avoid bad weather
Avoid driving in inclement weather if possible, as rain/snow/slush
can dramatically increase rolling resistance.
The exception to this rule may be when high winds (tailwinds) can
be used to your advantage.
23) Avoid peak traffic
If you have the option, avoid travel during peak traffic times.
With the roads full of other drivers, you have fewer options for using
driving techniques that the herd doesn't typically use or tolerate
(e.g. reduced highway speeds, drawn out coasting up to stop signs, etc).
24) Drive when it's warm out
If you have the flexibility, time your trips to coincide with warm
temperatures (ie. middle of the day) rather than cold (night/early
morning).
Cold tires and drivetrain experience more rolling and mechanical
resistance, and a cold engine is less efficient.
Sub/urban driving ...
25) Conserve momentum: stop sign 'stop and crawl'
When multiple vehicles ahead of you are progressing through a stop
sign (or a right turn at a red light), this represents a mini 'stop
and crawl' situation normally found in a bumper to bumper traffic jam.
Time your approach, to arrive at the stop sign as the last car
ahead is departing.
26) Conserve momentum: take a shortcut
Sometimes options exist to go through corner parking lots, side
streets, or alleyways to get around having to come to a stop at an
intersection or behind another vehicle.
Of course the utmost care must be taken in parking lots as they
present their own risks (pedestrians, vehicles reversing from parking
spots, etc.)
Also, cutting through corner parking lots may be illegal in some
areas.
27) Combining errands: do the longest leg first
When combining multiple trips into one journey, go to your
farthest destination first, and work your way back. This ensures the
vehicle is warmed up as much as possible before subjecting it to
multiple starts and stops.
28) Minimize idling when stopped
If you're going to be stopped for more than a few seconds, shift
to neutral and shut off your engine. This is one of the main reasons
hybrid vehicles get such good fuel economy in urban driving.
Caveat 1: this assumes your vehicle is in good tune and will
re-start immediately, every time.
Caveat 2: if you're a defensive driver, you're habitually
evaluating the risk of a rear crash when slowing and when stopped.
Obviously you will want to leave your engine on in those circumstances
(for a quick rear crash avoidance manoeuver).
29) Traffic light timing - stale 'green', no pedestrian signal
In the absense of any other indication about how stale the light
is (eg. if there's no pedestrian signal or waiting cross traffic),
assume that the green light ahead is about to change. Adjust your
approach speed accordingly (IF traffic permits - ie. you don't hold
anyone up) to avoid a full-on brake application should the light change.
30) Combine errands
Avoid very short trips. If you have multiple stops, plan them to
do all on the same trip. Fuel economy is enhanced once the engine is
warmed up, so a longer "chain" of errands will result in better fuel
economy than multiple short ones, particularly in cold weather.
31) Traffic light timing - red lights with sensors
When approaching a red light, slow down early if there's a car in
front of you that can trip the sensor so you may not have to come to a
complete stop.
CleanMPG.com cleverly nicnamed this technique "rabbit timing"
32) Traffic light timing - 'stale' green
When approaching an intersection with a green light you can watch
the pedestrian signal crossing light to help determine when it will
turn yellow.
Highway driving ...
33) Lights on for safety; lights off for MPG
In certain driving environments / conditions, the use of daytime
running lights (DRLs) or manually switching on headlights during the
day increases safety.
Depending on the vehicle, power demands of the lighting system
ranges from a few watts to well over 100 watts, all of which is
ultimately powered by gasoline. In the US, where DRL implentation is
voluntary, automakers have an exemption from CAFE testing which
permits vehicles' fuel economy to be tested with the lights switched off.
Switching off DRLs where their safety contribution is minimal (eg.
driving on a divided, controlled access highway) will save a small
amount of fuel.
34) Find/adopt a 'blocker' for slower freeway speeds
Some people are uncomfortable driving at speeds less than the
average flow of traffic on multi-lane freeways.
One solution is to find another vehicle going the speed you want
to travel (large, conspicuous vehicles work particularly well) and
drive either ahead of or behind it. (Note: this is not a suggestion to
draft.)
35) Close the sunroof at higher speeds
Some sunroof styles are better than others. The worst offenders
are the kind which tilt and slide to the outside, on top of the roof.
When open, these "roof-top spoilers" can significantly increase
aerodynamic drag.
36) Drafting: cross wind
In rare circumstances, it is possible to effectively "draft" a
larger vehicle in cross wind conditions without following directly
behind it. When cross wind conditions cause the low pressure area
trailing the lead vehicle to extend into adjacent lanes, you can take
advantage of reduced drag legally and with reduced risk.
Note: 1) this is not describing side-by-side driving, but
postioning that is offset to the rear. 2) While visibility directly
ahead is increased, a significant chunk of the driving picture may
still be blocked depending on the size of the lead vehicle.
37) Drafting: close behind (not recommended!)
1) At highway speeds there's no doubt that driving close behind a
large vehicle dramatically reduces fuel consumption. 2) It's a stupid
thing to do.
It's not recommended for many reasons, not the least of which is
that it's illegal in most areas, and doing so sacrifices the
foundation of safe and defensive driving: your ability to see well ahead.
38) Windows up
Drive with windows up at higher speeds to minimize aerodynamic
drag. Use flow-through ventilation if possible.
39) Reduce speed
Aerodynamic drag increases exponentially with speed, so reduce
highway cruising speed as much as practical and safe.
Generally, a vehicle's most efficient speed is just after its
highest gear has engaged.
See the Ecomodder Blog for more information on tracking fuel
consumption.
40) Constant throttle position cruising
Once up to speed, pick a throttle position and hold it.
Advantages: more efficient than using the cruise control (which
varies throttle position frequently and wastes fuel on hills).
Disadvantages: less efficient than "driving with load" (DWL) /
"target driving" (where the throttle is eased on inclines).
41) Cruise control - when to use it
Set the cruise control if you're the type of driver whose speed
creeps up higher and higher the longer you're on the road, or if you
have difficulty holding a steady speed (it wanders up and down).
But realize that cruise control is just a band aid for those
behaviours. Generally it's less efficient than constant throttle
driving, and much less efficient than "driving with load" / "target
driving".
42) Cruise control - when not to use it
Only use cruise control on flat roads. On hilly roads, cruise
responds to changes in grade - by feeding in more throttle on the
uphill and releasing on the descent - in the exact opposite way an
efficient driver would.
Braking tips ...
43) The most efficient way to slow down
When you *have* to slow down, here's an approximate heirarchy of
methods, from best to worst.
1) coasting in neutral, engine off (ie. roll to a stop);
2) coasting in neutral, engine idling;
3) regenerative coasting (hybrid vehicles)
4) regenerative braking (hybrid vehicles)
5) coasting in "deceleration fuel cut-off" mode (in gear, above a
certain engine RPM)
6) conventional friction braking (non-hybrid or hybrid)
Choosing the right method depends on traffic conditions (following
vehicles) and how quickly you need to stop.
44) Conserve momentum: avoid stopping
Avoid coming to a complete stop whenever possible (and when safe
and legal of course). It takes much less energy to accelerate a
vehicle when it's already traveling just a few kilometers per hour
than it does from a complete stop.
45) Hybrids: minimize regen braking
While regenerative braking in hybrid vehicles - capturing braking
energy into the battery - is more efficient than braking with
conventional friction brakes, it's still not as efficient as 'driving
without brakes' (DWB).
So even if you drive a hybrid, you'll get better economy when you
minimize use of the brake pedal.
46) "Drive without brakes" (DWB)
Minimize use of the brake pedal. Each time you press it, you're
effectively converting gasoline into brake dust and heat.
Driving as if you have no brakes will cause you to do two things:
1) reduces 'excessive' acceleration, and, 2) extends the amount of
time you spend coasting down to stops and turns.
Obviously you have to balance use of this technique against
traffic conditions so as not to adversely affect other drivers.
See the Ecomodder Blog for more information on DWB.
Advanced techniques ...
47) Drive shoeless
Some [cencored] hypermilers drive in sock or bare feet so they can
modulate the accelerator to the finest degree (particularly important
when "driving with load" / "target MPG driving" at cruise.
It shouldn't be that surprising. Race car drivers typically wear
extremely thin-sole boots for similar reasons: for the highest level
of tactile feedback from the vehicle, and to better finesse the pedals.
48) Conserve momentum: brake hard
It sounds like a contradiction, but there are rare times when
braking hard can save fuel compared to coasting or light braking: it's
a "damage control" technique when faced with an
unpredictable/unanticipated stop or slow down ahead and not a lot of
space.
An example: approaching a fresh red traffic light that had no
other indicators to predict the change (no pedestrian signal and no
cars waiting on the cross street). If you brake lightly/moderately,
you will cover the entire distance to the intersection and have no
option but coming to a full stop.
But if you brake quite hard initially, you can potentially scrub
enough speed and buy enough time to coast the remaining distance to
the intersection at a low speed. With judgment and some luck, you'll
arrive at a fresh green light and avoid a full stop.
Obviously, rapid deceleration isn't a safe option if there is
following traffic.
49) Make fuel economy a game/challenge
Competing against yourself (or others) to get the best possible
fuel economy can do wonders for increasing motivation to learn more,
refine your skills, and try harder.
Several web sites like EcoModder.com permit you to track and
compare your fuel economy against other drivers, and some organize
informal fuel economy challenges.
Hybrid festivals (e.g. hybridfest.com, greengrandprix.com)
periodically run fuel efficiency rallies where you can hone your
skills in competition with others in real time.
50) Use the 'racing line'
Knowing how to pick the "racing line" through a corner, when safe,
can help to preserve momentum. Generally, the racing line is the path
through a turn with the largest possible radius. It may permit a
higher speed with more comfort (less body roll and g-forces), and less
tire scrub.
Note this isn't advocating high speed turns, where the cost of
increased tire wear may outstrip fuel savings. Even at low speeds,
choosing the "racing line" has benefits.
51) Encourage a pass: the fake turn
Drivers who travel below the normal flow of traffic should
facilitate drivers approaching from behind to go past safely, with a
minimum of interruption.
"Faking" a turn by signalling and moving into a turning lane (even
though you intend to continue straight on) is one option.
Note: judgment and care is demanded so you don't mislead any
driver into making an unwanted move as a result of your
"miscommunication". You must be prepared to actually make the turn if
your actions create a situation that would make it the safest option.
52) Encourage a pass: hug right
Drivers who travel below the normal flow of traffic should
facilitate drivers approaching from behind to go past, rather than
force them to slow down.
One method of gaining the attention of the driver behind is to
move your vehicle very obviously to the extreme right of the lane
you're traveling in when it's safe for the following vehicle to pass.
Adding a turn signal to the move or the 4-way flashers may be even
more effective.
Of course, pulling completely off the roadway onto the shoulder to
let following traffic by is also worthwhile, if you have the option.
53) Hill tactic: don't waste potential energy
When facing a red traffic light, or some other predictable
stop/start situation at the bottom of a hill, you're better off
stopping near the top before you've accelerated to full speed. Wait,
and time your release to make it through on green, and you avoid
turning your potential energy into brake dust and heat. (Also known as
'smart braking'.)
54) Engine off coasting
Engine-off coasting (EOC) is one of the largest contributors to
increased efficiency of hybrid vehicles, many of which automatically
shut down the engine when the accelerator is released and the vehicle
is coasting.
EOC can be accomplished in non-hybrids as well simply by shifting
to neutral and switching the key from "Run" to "Acc" (being careful
not to switch to "Off" and cause the steering to lock). As soon as the
engine stops, return the key to the "Run" position so the odometer
continues to count distance traveled and you're ready for a re-start.
This technique is best suited to cars with manual steering and
manual transmissions. (Dramatically increased steering effort may be
required in some cars with power assist. Also, most vehicles with
automatic transmissions are not designed to travel with the engine
shut off; the transmission may be damaged).
In non-hybrids, EOC is considered an advanced technique and should
not be attempted until the skill developed away from traffic. In
addition, coasting with the engine off is illegal in some areas.
55) Drive with load (DWL)
AKA "target driving". Put most simply, this technique is
accomplished by choosing a "target" rate of fuel consumption and
ensuring you don't fall below it on hills (or in very strong winds, or
any conditions which cause load to vary for a given speed).
In other words, you will back off the accelerator and lose speed
(possibly also downshifting) as you climb, and gain that speed back on
the descent.
It's far more efficient than pressing the accelerator more and
more to maintain speed on the way up a hill and then releasing it down
the other side.
DWL is how an efficiency minded person can greatly outperform
cruise control in hilly terrain.
Obviously the ability to use this technique without adversely
affecting other drivers depends on the traffic situation.
As well, fuel economy instrumentation is required to DWL/target
drive to the maximum extent, though it can also be done using a vacuum
gauge, and to a much lesser extent by the seat of the pants.
56) Heavy traffic: play the accordion
If faced with worst-case "stop & crawl" traffic conditions, leave
as much space ahead of you as possible and continually "accordion"
that space to keep your vehicle moving near a constant speed while the
cars in front of you stop & start.
Yes, some people will cut into the space you create ahead of you.
Deal with it.
Note that this may aggravate following drivers who can't absorb
the big picture, and that must be taken into account.
57) Pulse and glide (P&G)
Use pulse and glide (or "burn and coast") rather than maintaining
a constant speed, where practical.
Pulse and glide explained
58) Push it - 1
If you only have to move your car a very short distance - eg. out
of the garage - consider rolling it rather than starting it up to move
it.
59) Push it - 2
If you're starting out on an incline, give your car a shove to get
it rolling as far as possible before starting the engine.
Parking (and departing) ...
60) Start up: wait for the opportunity to move
Don't start the engine until there's actually an opportunity to
start driving: eg. a gap in traffic when exiting a driveway or parking
space.
You can plan even further ahead: don't turn the key until you know
you can time the next traffic light down the street.
61) Parking tactics: orbit to bleed momentum
If you find you have too much momentum after reaching your
preferred parking spot, continue coasting further down the row or
"orbiting" a spot until you can roll to a stop in position without
touching the brakes.
(The extent to which you might continue 'orbiting' depends on
whether your engine is on/off and whether you're driving a manual or
automatic. Also, it depends on traffic in the lot, obviously.)
62) Parking tactics: gravity assist
Slopes can be useful in manoeuvering into a parking place. One
which I regularly back into (it can't be driven through) has a small
slope across from it. I kill the engine approaching the slope, and
engine-off coast backwards into the spot.
Gravity can be a hindrance in parking as well. Avoid driving down
into a parking "hole" which you must drive out of later. Even if you
EOC into the hole, you'll face a net efficiency loss when you drive
your cold vehicle up and out later.
63) Parking tactics: avoid parallel parking
For on-street parking, the better spot is one with enough room to
pull in/out rather than multiple reverse/forward manoeuvering
(parallel parking).
64) Parking tactics: reverse in
If you have no pull-through spots to choose from, reverse in when
arriving, instead of driving in when warm and backing out/turning
around when the vehicle is cold and fuel economy is at its worst.
Also note that reversing into a flow of traffic is riskier (and
therefore much slower and less efficient) because you may not have a
clear view until your vehicle's back end is well out of the space.
65) Parking tactics: pick the periphery
Choosing a spot in the "periphery" of a busy lot will be more
efficient than navigating the rows of traffic/pedestrians to get as
close as possible to the building or destination.
66) Parking tactics: pull-through spot
Drive into a "pull through" spot, rather than a spot that requires
reverse/forward manoeuvering.
67) Start up: not until you're adjusted
Don't start the vehicle until you're settled in: seat, seatbelt &
mirrors adjusted; passengers settled in as well.
68) Multiple vehicles: choose the one that's warmed up
In a multi-vehicle household, if you have the choice of using
similar vehicles, choose the one that was driven most recently if it's
still warm.
69) Multiple vehicles: choose the most efficient one in the 'fleet'
If you have a multi-vehicle household or workplace, choose the
most efficient vehicle from the fleet that will accomplish the task at
hand.
Transmission tips ...
70) Automatic transmission: key off, then Park
Save a few drops of fuel by modifying your shutdown procedure:
when parking, turn off the key *before* shifting to Park and setting
the parking brake.
71) Manual transmission: cruise in high gear
When cruising at a constant speed, shift to the highest gear you
can use without lugging the engine.
72) Automatic transmission: highest gear/lowest RPM for posted speed
When cruising, drive the the speed that allows the lowest RPM for
the speed zone you are in.
EG. if the posted speed is 30 and your car shifts into 3rd at 35,
you may be able to achieve the 3rd gear shift, then reduce and hold 30
without causing a downshift.
73) Automatic transmission: torque converter (TC) lockup
Drive at the speed that allows the TC (torque converter) to lock
up. This is often around 40-45 mph. Speeds just above this typically
return the higest cruising fuel economy.
74) Automatic transmission: neutral when stopped
Shift automatic transmissions to neutral when stopped (assuming
you're going to leave the engine running). Remaining in drive wastes
fuel as the engine continues to try to creep the car forward while
being held back by the brakes.
75) Automatic transmission: upshift coaxing
Some automatic transmissions can be coaxed to upshift sooner when
accelerating by briefly releasing some throttle pressure, then
re-applying to continue accelerating.
76) Automatic transmission: use OD (overdrive)
If your transmission has an "OD" (overdrive) button or position,
leave it engaged to ensure the transmission will shift into its
highest gear as soon as possible.
77) Automatic transmission: use economy mode
If your automatic transmission has a "power/economy" button, leave
it in economy mode. This usually results in earlier upshifts and later
downshifts, saving fuel.
Winter / foul weather ...
78) Wait for the snow plow
Driving through fresh snow increases rolling resistance moderately
to dramatically, depending on the depth/type of snow. Better fuel
economy will result when you wait for the plows (or for other vehicles
to pack the snow down) before setting out.
Similarly, getting stranded in a ditch or snow drift because you
set out in bad weather is a surefire way to waste fuel if you need to
idle the car to stay warm while waiting for help.
79) Winter: avoid wheel spin on ice/snow
If you drive in ice/snow, avoid wheelspin when traction is low.
Changing to dedicated snow/ice tires that offer better traction may
save fuel.
Wheelspin is especially inefficient if your vehicle is equipped
with brake assisted traction control.
80) Follow the leader in rain or snow
In weather conditions that leave a lot of precipitation on the
road - heavy rain or snow - drive in the tiretracks of the vehicle in
front to reduce rolling resistance.
An exception to this tip may be on "rutted" surfaces where water
tends to pool in the ruts. In that case, driving on the ridges between
the ruts offers less resistance.
81) Winter: clean off snow & ice
Completely clear snow & ice off your vehicle before driving. It
will minimize your use of energy hungry accessories (defrosters),
remove an aerodynamic penalty (increased frontal area), and reduce
weight (a layer of ice and snow over an entire vehicle can weigh a
surprising amount).
82) Winter parking: clean out the garage
If you have one, clean out your garage so you can park your car
inside during the cold months of the year. The faster warm up will
return better fuel economy.
83) Winter: use heated parking
If you've got the choice, heated parking will improve fuel
economy. The potential downside is that it may increase the rate of
corrosion if you drive where roads are salted.
84) Avoid heater use until the engine has reached operating temperature
Engines runs rich until a minimum temperature threshold is
reached. Running the heater blower before that has happened will
slightly increase warm-up time and increase fuel consumption.
85) Avoid 'warm up' idling
Don't idle your engine to warm it on a cold day. An idling engine
gets zero miles per gallon.
Start to drive - under light loads - as soon as the engine is
running smoothly (usually immediately). It's a more efficient way to
warm the engine and entire drivetrain, including tires.
Hot weather ...
86) Cycle the A/C if you have to use it
If you have to use the air conditioner, set the air flow to
recirculate and manually turn the A/C on and off as needed. For
greater efficiency, switch it on when under light engine loads or
deceleration fuel cut off and off when under moderate/heavy loads.
(Note: some newer vehicles do this automatically.)
87) Summer: park in the shade
Parking in the shade will keep the inside of your vehicle cooler,
which can help you minimize use of air conditioning.
88) Use a beaded seat cover
They work surprisingly well as an alternative to (or defer the use
of) air conditioning, by letting air flow behind & beneath you. They
keep you from sticking to your seat, and your clothes from sticking to
you.
Other non-A/C options include ice vests and DIY ice water A/C units.
89) Minimize air conditioning use
Air conditioning requires a lot of power. Use it sparingly.
Driving at city speeds, you'll save fuel by using your flow
through vents and opening windows.
At highway speeds, whether A/C is more or less efficient than
opening windows will depend on the speed, your vehicle's aerodynamics
and A/C design.
90) Trip timing: avoid the hottest times of day to reduce A/C use
If you live where the weather is very hot, avoid driving if
possible during the peak temperatures of the day when use of the air
conditioner is "required."
Just generally good driving tips ...
91) Maintain a space cushion
When driving on a multi-lane roadway, try to maintain a "space
cushion" around you.
IE. avoid driving for any length of time beside a vehicle in the
next lane. The more options you leave open for making a prompt lane
change if one is needed, the safer and more efficient you'll be (if it
means avoiding an unnecessary slowdown).
92) Maintain appropriate following distance
Avoid driving so close behind another vehicle that you are forced
to *immediately* brake if it begins slowing down. Important at all
times, but particularly in sub/urban driving where traffic changes
speed more often.
Leave enough space that you have time to choose other options
(perhaps a lane change).
In addition, the greater your following distance, the better your
forward visibility will be, which enables you to look well ahead and
anticipate changes in the driving environment.
93) Be smooth
Smooth use of the accelerator, steering, transmission and brakes
is not only more comfortable for you and your passengers, it's also a
little more efficient (less scrubbing of tires, energy lost through
suspension movement). It's also better for the longevity of the
vehicle and in general a sign of a skilled driver.
94) Use your horn defensively
Defensive drivers will tap their horns to ensure they have the
attention of other motorists or pedestrians in close quarters and
potentially risky situations.
Being proactive will save fuel if it means you can avoid having to
brake or stop unnecessarily.
95) Look well ahead & anticipate
Your ability to drive efficiently depends on being able to
anticipate changes in the driving environment. The way to do this is
by constantly scanning well ahead in your intended path.
In city driving you should know what's happening at least 10-15
seconds ahead. On the freeway, at least 30 seconds visual lead time is
appropriate.
96) Drive the posted speed
Drive the posted speed limit or the minimum allowed, when safe to
do so.
Miscellaneous ...
97) Don't keep up with the Joneses
It easy to be competitive when driving. Resist knee-jerk
retaliation to other drivers' aggressive actions. Don't let other
drivers lead you astray from your driving style.
98) Minimize use of low range
Many 4 wheel drive / AWD vehicles also come with high and low
transmission ranges. Low range increases engine RPM and fuel
consumption for a given gear/road speed combination compared to high.
99) Minimize use of 4 wheel drive
The added friction of drive components in four wheel drive mode
increases fuel consumption, especially when the center differential is
locked and the vehicle is turning.
100) If you have to carry items outside the vehicle...
Carry them on the back of the vehicle, instead of on the roof.
Long, skinny items can even be carried beneath some vehicles (with
ample ground clearance).
This is more important the faster and further you intend to go.
101) Minimize accessory loads
Minimize use of electrical and mechanical accessory loads when
safe and/or practical (lights, defrost, blower, electric heated seats,
dvd players/screens, heated mirrors, etc).
102) Use a block heater
Pre-warm your engine with an electric block heater. Engines are
most efficient at full operating temperature, and the block heater
helps it get there sooner. About 2 hours is the maximum time needed to
pre-warm a small engine.
103) Drive like you ride a bike
For you cyclists looking for a way to wrap your head around the
subject of efficient motoring: drive like you bike.
Meaning, if you think about spending energy as wisely in your car
as you do when you ride, you should automatically become aware of
several of the major tips on this list, such as:
a) Ensuring your tires are properly inflated & vehicle is in good
mechanical condition, for reduced rolling & mechanical resistance.
b) Smart braking: you'll spend more distance coasting up to stops
(you don't pedal madly towards stop signs and then jam on the binders,
do you?)
c) You'll "drive with load" on hills (you don't usually power up
hills trying to maintain your previous cruising speed, do you?)
d) You'll reduce speed (because cyclists are highly attuned to the
relationship between aerodynamic drag and the energy consumed to
travel at high speed).
104) Avoid towing
Trailer towing delivers the triple whammy of increased weight,
higher aerodynamic drag, and a third (or fourth) set of tires for more
rolling resistance.
Carry loads in the vehicle if possible.
If not, minimize towing speeds and adjust your technique to
account for the extra momentum the trailer and its load will add.
105) Listen to slower music
Leave the speed metal at home. Fast paced music can make a driver
more impatient, more agressive and likely to speed. At the same time,
slower paced music is more relaxing and tends to promote a more
sensible driving style while also reducing stress.
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