copy paste dari post nasdaq moderator otomotif kafegaul

Yongis_CD · Post by **Yongis_CD** » Fri Jun 13, 2003 6:14

saya copy pastekan ini karena buat refrensi kalo baca majalah otomotid edisi ekslusif berisi cara2 moddifikasi mesin

Please read this post before you ask us anything on car modification.

First of all, before you start modding anything, please do us a favor by modding yourself before you endangering both yourself and others. Loe bisa modding your driving capability by ikutan defensive driving course, autocross, SOLO, slalom, etc.

Buat occasional weekend autocrosser or track racer, loe ga perlu gahar banget sampe special setting alignment, camber, caster, etc. Although, I admit masalah settingan suspension itu penting, but IMHO itu buat yg sampe professional banget. Gua saranin loe-loe yg interested ikutan autocross or SOLO, etc, mendingan setting chamber, alignment, caster di stock setting. Ntar down the road, kalo loe kurang sreg loe bisa setting lagi.

Modifying suspension and brakes itu essential banget BEFORE loe start modding your engine. Masalahnya kalo engine loe kenceng and ga bisa handle weight transfer, brakes, etc loe itu in a grave danger!

Step 1: suspension mods.
install coilover kalo budget loe cukup. budget pas-pas'an loe ganti shocks and springs. pasang swaybar both front and rear. kalo loe ngerasa chasiss boil loe masih kurang kaku, baru loe pasang strutbar. strurtbar yg penting itu dipasang di front, jgn rear nggga terlalu perlu kecuali loe sering keluar kota or sering ke race track or loe sering autocross. inget, pake yg bagus'an for your own safety.
recommended springs: H&R, Eibach, HKS, Tanabe, JAMEX, GREDDY or TRUST, NEUSPEED.
recommended shocks/damper: Tanabe, Tokicko, Billstein, HKS, KYB, KONI, GREDDY or TRUST.
recommended swaybars: Eibach, HKS, APR, GREDDY or TRUST, NEUSPEED.
recommended strutbars: HKS, APR, HKS, GREDDY or TRUST.

Budget: (Approx)
Coilover: USD$800 to USD$2200.
Springs: USD$130 to USD$320.
Shocks/damper: USD$250 (non adjustable) to USD$475 (both for adjustable and non adjustable).
Swaybars: USD$250 to USD$430.
Strutbars: USD$120 to USD$275.

Step 2: brake mods.
kalo di sini (di US), boil sedan rata-rata udah pake discbrake. kecuali yg low end car masih ada yg pake tromol buat rear brake'nya. buat loe di indo, kayanya loe mendingan ganti brake depan and belakang pake discbrake sekalian ganti calipers'nya juga. kalo mau ganti, sekalian brake lines'nya ganti pake yg either teflon or steel. tujuannya biar pas loe perlu sudden brake, brake lines loe itu ngga ngembang. kalo loe udah ganti brakelines loe, brake fluid loe ganti pake yg DOT4 or DOT5.1 jangan lupa brake shoes (sepatu rem) loe ganti pake yg bagusan.
recommended brake lines: APR, AEM, HKS, GREDDY ot TRUST, NEUSPEED.
recommended discbrake and calipers: APR, AEM, BREMBO, GREDDY ot TRUST, NEUSPEED.
recommended brakeshoes: BREMBO, NEUSPEED, APR, AEM, GREDDY or TRUST.
*Warning: If converting from DOT 3 or DOT 4 to DOT 5 it is recommended to rebuild the whole hydraulic system. Or at least flush the previous fluids completely, as any contaminants would be hazardous to the system operation.* By: Quadrotaryturbo

Budget: (Approx)
From USD$100 (brakeshoes only) to mreo than USD$4000 (for a complete brake set such as, BREMBO).

Step 3: engine mods (mild to [cencored]).
loe bisa mulai dari cold air intake, header, freeflow exhaust. and loe naek ke polish intake manifold and exhaust manifold kalo loe ngerasa kurang.

the next step would be, loe engine rebalance. rebalance semuanya mulai dari crankshaft, cylinderhead, flywheel, camshaft (kalo mau diganti ya ngga usah di rabalance), pokok'nya semuanya.

next, loe bisa ganti camshaft loe, both intake and exhaust of course! ganti camshaft biasanya orang complaint "kok idle boil gua jadi batuk-batuk alias rough" ya itu soalnya gearing'nya ga bener nge'set'nya. kalo ganti camshaft, sekalian loe ganti camgear'nya, of course, both for intake cam gear and exhaust cam gear.

next, loe bisa ganti valve springs loe. ini tujuannya biar opening and closing'nya lebih cepet. alias, engine response loe lebih bagus.

next, injector boil loe musti di re-balance and di re-calibrate. tujuannya, buat supaya ngebalance between fuel and air consumption and ngilangin detonation.

next, kalo loe udah praktekin semua yg diatas. engine loe itu udah gahar. nah loe uadh maen setengah force induction. sekarang loe baru bisa pasangin fuel pressure regulator and sekalian pasang fuel rail.

jangan lupa juga ganti oil pressure regulator and oil pan. engine makin kenceng, butuh pemasukan oil yg lancar.

next, ganti clutch loe pake yg competition. sekalian ganti semuanya, mulai dari ballbearing, clutch plate, sampe pressure plate (matahari).

next, nah loe baru boleh ganti ignition boil loe (kabel busi) and sekalian busi'nya juga. soalnya engine loe sekarang itu udah kenceng and butuh pembakaran yg bagus.

**jgn lupa loe resetting or recalibrate engine ECU loe. jgn maen ganti chip or apa. loe reset dulu ECU boil loe. caranya gampang. setelah loe pasang semua performance parts boil loe and loe udah testdrive, baterrey (accu) boil loe negative'nya loe lepas and loe biarin selama 20mins to 30mins. or kalo bisa sampe engine boil loe cool. makanya buka aja engine hood loe biar engine loe cepet dingin. nah kalo udah loe reconnect lagi negative baterrey nya and udah gitu loe test drive, tapi jgn soft nyetirnya. loe musti sedikit gahar. tujuannya itu biar ECU boil loe belajar lagi characteristics engine boil loe and driving style loe.**

next, loe bisa naekin compression kalo loe mau maen N/A (normally aspirated). kalo mau maen FI alias force induction, compression sebaiknya di turunin.

sekarang kita bicarain N/A. naekin compression loe bisa cuman ganti packaging or bahasa indonesianya itu paking. ganti both yg bagian atas engine loe and bottom'nya juga sekalian.
nah step terahir ini maen [cencored]. loe udah maen FI. loe bisa pasang supercharger or turbocharger.

kalo pasang supercharger, loe ga perlu aneh-aneh with settingan engine loe yg udah di modified pake cara diatas yg gua udah terangin panjang lebar sampe jari gua cape ngetiknya. tapi kalo loe pikir masih kurang "uhmph"'nya ya loe bisa naekin psi boost di supercharger loe. caranya very easy, loe ganti aja pully'nya. pake yg kecil, otomatis boost psi'nya bakalan naek and makin gede boost boil loe. biasanya supercharger maen di 5psi to 6psi. bates aman kalo mau naekin psi and masih bisa enak dipake jalan hari-harian loe bisa naekin boost loe up to 10psi, max.
paling sip kalo loe pasang supercharger, loe pasang juga intercooler. tujuannya biar udara dingin yg diambil ama supercharger loe.

other option would be, loe pasang turbocharger. pasang turbocharger ngga segampang yg orang bilang. loe sebaiknya turunin dulu compressin engine boil loe. seberapa banyak turuin copressionn'nya ada rumus'nya and gua ga ngerti. loe musti consult ama speedshop di tempat loe.

kalo loe pasang turbo, loe sekalian pasang turbo timer, turbo boost controller, BOV (blow-of valve), pop-up valve, intercooler, boost regulator, boost gauges, exhaust temperature gauges, injector regulator gauges, water pressure regulator and gauges, etc.
contrary to most ignorat indonesian riceboy believe, BOV itu dipasang bukan buat suara "chssssssssssss" yg keren. bukan, tujuannya BOV itu dipasang buat ngebuang boost yg ngga diperluin and otomatis protect turbo loe.

kalo loe pasang turbo and supercharger, loe mendingan sekalian di dynotest. supaya loe dial up boost'nya pas and ngga ngerusak engine loe. both turbocharger and supercharger bisa prolong engine life loe kalo loe nge dial boost'nya and settingan engine loe itu bener and pas.

Budget: (Approx)
From USD$1000 to unlimited. Do I hear, got some money burning on your pocket?

i might miss something, but until i find out what did i miss, i'd say...that is all...

by NASDAQ

Ini ada tambahan dari BeW
Iya,iya, baik, kasian banget deh.
dari gua overall ajah, detailnya ama NASDAQ, Sidaiz, Takumi ajah hohoho...
Soalnya kalo mau detail banget harus muter-muter ke speed shop sendiri.
(harga tidak mengikat)

Modifikasi mesin
Light:
-Filter K&N, Yakuza, dll-------300rb-1jt
-Kabel busi 8mm ke atas--------300rb-500rb
-Koil--------------------------500rb-1jt
-Ignigation MSD, dsb-----------750rb-2jt
-Fuel pressure Reg.------------1jt-2jt
-header DC sport, dsb----------1jt-5jt
-freeflow exhaust 5zigen, dsb--750rb-4jt

Medium:
-Polish in-ex------------------2jt-5jt
-Camshaft----------------------2jt-7jt
-power pulley------------------2jt-3jt

Rather Heavy:
-Balance engine----------------2jt-10jt or more

Heavy:
-New engine--------------------20jt-100jt or more
(depend on type of engine)
-Supercharger------------------20-30jt
-TurboCharger------------------20-50jt

Suspension:
Per h&r, tanabe, tein, dll-----1jt-5jt
Shocks-------------------------5jt-10jt
Adjustable Shock---------------9jt-25jt
Air shocks---------------------10jt-20jt
Hydrolic Shock-----------------30jt-50jt
Strutbar-----------------------1jt-3jt
Swaybar------------------------1jt-3jt

Brake:
DiskBrake----------------------4jt-10jt
Caliper------------------------5jt-12jt
ABS----------------------------Do we need ABS?

Coba yang laennya juga.

Yongis_CD · Post by **Yongis_CD** » Fri Jun 13, 2003 6:16

Let me explain a little bit about LSD, Traction control (TRAC), etc....

Some of you might wondering "what the f*ck is LSD?" Well....
LSD is stands for Limited Slip Differential. In a short, LSD function is to transfer the equal amount of power to the wheel that losing its traction. Beda LSD and TRAC itu significant.

TRAC yg biasanya ada di BMWs and MBs itu bukan LSD!!! Function TRAC yg ada di BMWs and MBs itu cuman safety feature doang and NOT an LSD. TRAC yg di BMWs and MBs itu work in tandem with the ECU. So basically, kalo boil loe ambil tikungan trus losing grip, TRAC langsung send signals ke ECU udah gitu ECU kurangin engine power output (by reducing Throttle Body opening and limiting firing inside the combustion chamber, hence, reducing engine optput power) and apply a little bit of brake.

Nah biasanya mobil yg ada TRAC itu engine managementnya udah maen throttle by wire. Dont be confused with throttle pake cable, NO! Maksudnya itu throttle signalsnya itu instead of using cable as in a regular car, pake electronic signals and di send ke ECU and dari ECU di relay ke throttle body di engine loe.
Oiya... satu lagi, TRAC bakalan function best kalo work in conjuction with LSD.

In a sense, TRAC only itu buat beginner and average joe and jane driver. While LSD only itu buat advance driver.

Now, the LSD. LSD itu baru true traction/grip distributor from one wheel to another. LSD itu ada 2 types. First type it called TORSEN LSD (hellical gear LSD) and, the second type clutch type LSD....

Nah hellical gear itu gini.... kalo gear boil biasanya kalo dari atas alurnya itu: /////////////
nah kalo hellical itu kebalikannya: \\\\\\\\\\\\\

TORSEN stands from TORque SENsing. So basically kalo LSD loe sense ada torque, that LSD function immideately. However, in TORSEN LSD ada 3 types. First type is 1 way (function only when LSD sense there's a miss grip), second type is 1.5 ways (LSD going active on certain torque - and certain degree of miss grip), third type is 2 ways (function immediately as soon as you step on the gas pedal). IMO, I'd go with 2 ways; as a matter of fact, most LSD equipped cars udah pake 2 ways. Such as, Integra Type-R (B18C5 and RSX type-R), IS300, GS400, BMW M3 (all of them), BMW 3/5/7 series (for EUDM and USDM, ga tau yg di Indo - biasa... banyak yg di copot copotin ama ATPM ), MB C/E/S classes, Supra MK-IV (TT and non TT), Ferrarris, Viper, etc.

To sum it up:

Torsen-type (helical gear) LSD advantages:

+ Responds to slippage almost immediately.
+ Won't contribute to understeer.
+ Won't lower your gas mileage.
+ Won't require periodic rebuilds.
+ Requires only hypoid gear oil.

Torsen-type (helical gear) LSD disadvantages:

- Weak compared to the nearly-indestructible clutch-type LSD.
- Slip-restraint action is more jarring than the clutch-type LSD.
- Nonadjustable.

Torsen-type (helical gear) LSD is particularly suited for:

= A relatively stock power output (no more than 133% of stock).
= A car that is driven with a wide range of aggressiveness, with no particular bias within the range from no-aggression cruising to sporty mountain running to all-out road racing - a Torsen-type diff doesn't resist differentiation in the absence of actual slip, hence doesn't provoke understeer in high-grip condition nor provoke oversteer in low-grip conditions.
= A car that is also used as a high-mileage commuter - a Torsen-type diff doesn't contribute to increased fuel consumption.

Clutch-type LSD advantages:

+ Almost indestructible.
+ Smooth slip-limiting action.
+ Adjustable by competent mechanics.
+ Available in high bias percentages.

Clutch-type LSD disadvantages:

- In high bias percentages, can manifest understeer in grippy conditions while manifesting oversteer in slippery conditions.
- Lowers overall fuel economy.
- Requires clutch-plate set replacements as they wear.
- Requires friction modifiers in the gear oil.

Clutch-type LSD is particularly suited for:

= A power output modified significantly (over 133%) beyond stock, but still putting power through the stock-dimensioned diff case - the clutch-type can handle a huge load and lots of abuse, which is important if you're completely exceeding the OEM design parameters.
= A car that is primarily driven at all-out race pace - the understeer issue don't apply since a race-driven RWD car should always be on the verge of oversteer.
= Not a high mileage commuter - that is, unless gas is cheap and you're into rebuilding diffs.

Car manufacturers don't equip even super-performance stock cars with clutch-type diffs because with full engineering and fabrication control, they don't have to tolerate any of the disadvantages of the clutch-type diff. For whatever high level of power, a manufacturer would just use a bigger diff case to hold a higher-torque-capacity Torsen-type LSD.

The only case I can imagine a party with full engineering and fabrication capabilites (a professional racing team) resorting to a clutch-type LSD is in racing, where a smaller clutch-type LSD can do the job of a bigger and heavier Torsen-type LSD, nevermind the drawbacks.

But in the absence of engineering and fabrication capabilities, clutch-type diffs are a godsend for amateur racers with dedicated race cars.

$0.02

y_anjasrana · Post by **y_anjasrana** » Fri Jun 13, 2003 6:45

Informasi begini gak boleh diliwatin nih..... Baca ulang ahh....

deanz · Post by **deanz** » Fri Jun 13, 2003 8:29

pusing, ga bisa bahasa inggeris nih....

ME_45 · Post by **ME_45** » Sat Jun 14, 2003 5:16

Wah ketauan NASDAQ dimarahin loe mas yongis .... huehuehue

Yongis_CD · Post by **Yongis_CD** » Sat Jun 14, 2003 5:44

wah gak papa dong kan yg penting mencantumkan nara sumbernya.....kalo saya gak mencantumkan bahwa ini tulisanya nasdaq barulah saya salah...

y_anjasrana · Post by **y_anjasrana** » Mon Jun 16, 2003 2:33

Tenang ajah... Toh disini banyak yg gak ngerti isinya.....

NASDAQ · Post by **NASDAQ** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 4:18

Yongis_CD: ok first of all, thank you kalo postingan gua di KG oto bisa dijadiin input. It is quite an honor. Terus terang tanpa bantuan anak anak KG oto yg laen kita para moderator KG ngga bakalan bisa ngumpulin comprehensive data kaya gini.

Secondly, gini man, loe ngga salah and ngga bener. Tapi loe ada diposisi yg ngga in your favor. Meskipun gua ngga keberatan loe ambil postingan gua dari KG oto (gua moderator disono) tapi please man, by looking at your post, loe itu sering mampir ke KG oto. The least that you can do is to contact gua di KG lewat private message and letting me know about this thread.

Ok loe ada concern ama comment gue, contact gua di http://www.kafegaul.com/forum and cari "otomotif".

Regards,
NASDAQ
Moderator KG Otomotif Forum

MarlboroMan · Post by **MarlboroMan** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 5:21

yong
kalo gue sih bukan mempermasalahkan soal copy paste nya atau soal izin atau enggak ke nasdaq.
yg gue masalahin adalah, loe dah bener2 ngerti nggak apa yg ada ditulisannya nasdaq? (bukan maksud gue meng-under estimate elo lho

)
soalnya kalo elo mengcopy paste suatu literatur, elo kudu bener2 ngerti dulu, soalnya kalo di leteratur itu ada yg salah tetapi elo nggak tau karena elo nggak ngerti maksudnya, terus elo langsung mengcopy paste, itu namanya elo menjerumuskan orang lain

no offense lho, cuma mau kritik doang

Yongis_CD · Post by **Yongis_CD** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 6:31

ya ya saya ada yg lupa yaitu walaupun seseorang itu bahasa inggrisnya begitu bagus belum tentu dia mengerti apa isi daripada literatur ini..........ya ya.. saya juga lupa bahwa tidak semua anggota di sini mengerti masalah tehnik mobil secara dalam dan mendetail...................

oh ya,barusan tadi salah seorang boss saya yg saya ketahui cukup hobi dengan mobil mampir ke meja saya dan melihat2 Majalah Otomotif EDISI Ekslusif yg saya bicarakan diawal thread,baru berapa detik melihat2 isinya langsung dilempar lagi ke meja saya....." wah rak ngerti....teknikal banget sih....."......wah....saya baru sadar.....

thx berat atas kritikanya........
CMIIW

y_anjasrana · Post by **y_anjasrana** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 7:49

Sebetulnya kalu dibaca perlahan-lahan dikit-dikit ngerti juga koq. Cuma resikonya otot mata bisa keluar semua....

Yongis_CD · Post by **Yongis_CD** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 10:05

ya gw juga gak nyangka sih nasdaq ampe tersinggung sampe bilang gak mau main ke seraya motor lagi selamanya.. wah padahal kita butuh pakar2 dari KG buat bikin maju forum ini......yah daku emang salah juga kadang2 daku merasa orang lain tuh sama dengan daku padahal enggak....karena kalo postingan daku dipaste dimana2 daku gak keberatan asal nyantumin nama.....oh ya daku sudah pasang permohonan maap di KG

Post by **WiraSoenaryo** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 10:15

Ya sudah lah...
Gak usah diungkit lagi...
Kita gunakan ini sebagai pengalaman kita dalam melakukan posting di forum2..

In case bung NASDAQ kunjung ke forum ini lagi.
Sekali lagi mewakili seluruh forum SM saya minta maaf apabila salah satu member saya melakukan kesalahan ke bung NASDAQ...

MarlboroMan · Post by **MarlboroMan** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 11:08

Yongis_CD wrote:ya gw juga gak nyangka sih nasdaq ampe tersinggung sampe bilang gak mau main ke seraya motor lagi selamanya..

lagi bete aja kali tu anak

btw gue masih boleh kan sekali2 mampir kesini. soalnya tadi baru masuk langsung ngritik

Post by **WiraSoenaryo** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 14:12

MarlboroMan wrote:
Yongis_CD wrote:ya gw juga gak nyangka sih nasdaq ampe tersinggung sampe bilang gak mau main ke seraya motor lagi selamanya..
lagi bete aja kali tu anak

btw gue masih boleh kan sekali2 mampir kesini. soalnya tadi baru masuk langsung ngritik

Silakan saja...
gak ada yang melarang kok...

NASDAQ · Post by **NASDAQ** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 14:38

Yo! I think gua musti mampir lagi buat try to clear the smoke up in here.

Yongis_CD and tomcat, loe tau topic'nya dimana di KG oto, gua udah jelasin point of view gua.

Now that I think the bad air is starting to clear up, I and others, will gladly assist you when needed.

Post by **WiraSoenaryo** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 15:10

NASDAQ wrote:Yo! I think gua musti mampir lagi buat try to clear the smoke up in here.

Yongis_CD and tomcat, loe tau topic'nya dimana di KG oto, gua udah jelasin point of view gua.

Now that I think the bad air is starting to clear up, I and others, will gladly assist you when needed.

Yup agree... I think this problem already done...
I think Mr Yong also agree with this....

NASDAQ · Post by **NASDAQ** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 15:45

tomcat,

case'nya dah closed. you can lock this up to prevent any other misunderstanding

Post by **WiraSoenaryo** » Sat Jun 28, 2003 0:16

NASDAQ wrote:tomcat,

case'nya dah closed. you can lock this up to prevent any other misunderstanding

Yup.. I will...
You can closed juga yang di KG for the same reason..